🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.